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1989年Estate 杂志的封面人物

世界公认的皮草设计大师

摄影/John Betley

加拿大是世界主要的皮草生产国。皮草行业每年对GDP的增长供应超过10亿加元。对外贸易额高达4.57 亿元。同时,许多加拿大人也乐于购买皮草,不仅在于穿着皮草的优雅性,更看重皮草保暖的实用性。

皮草如此到的产业链却是建立在一个个小型企业基础上。实际上,大部分的皮草公司属于家庭企业,这些企业的雇员总体上都少于100人,大部分企业甚至雇员少于50人。国家产业中心将会向您介绍三家顶尖企业,均享有皮草大师美誉

Chris Anthopoulos

Chris Anthopoulos of Yukon Fur Company has what must be termed a calling. Wearing a lab coat (the uniform of his trade), he’s trying to explain what separates a good furrier form a great one. “It’s an ability you’re born with, just as an artist can use paint on a canvas to produce a masterpiece, another without the talent created painted fabric”.

A man whose quiet voice belies his intense passions. Anthopoulos started in the fur business many years ago in the small Greek town of Kastoria, one of the world’s fur capitals. He was 13 – it was his first job – and he fell in love. “I saw such potential for achievement in furs, I saw that each article presents a challenge. It’s like art.” he says “So many manufacturers don’t take the time, the pride, to create a masterpiece”.

Anthopoulos leaned what he could in Greece and at the age of 18 came to Canada. It was June 30, 1959 – the date fixed in his mind because when he set foot on Canadian soil he knew that this, too, would be a great passion. “This is a wonderful country, the best. I came here with great hopes. I’d had high marks in school – I knew I could do anything – but all I wanted was to be in this business” he recalls. “My dream was to learn all I could to achieve the status of master furriers. I took any job I could get. I learned how to match, how to sew. And that wasn’t enough. I wanted the design itself to be exquisite”.

Seventeen years ago, Anthopoulos set up his own shop with his brother George. They chose the name Yukon for the far north where the best furs originate, and because as Canadian, where they believe the furriers are best. “Our first goal was to be expert furriers with a high-quality, beautiful product” he notes. But he recognized the potential to become known as a leader in design, too. He entered the prestigious American Legend, an elite fur exposition held all over the world. Last year, Yukon was accepted – a coup no other Canadian company and few American ones have achieved.

It was the culmination of years of work. “It takes a long time for a furrier to gain the recognition and trust of the retail buyers and the public” Anthopoulos points out. “We’ve done it. We’re known for producing high quality” That quality is maintained by staying small. Yukon Furs makes only 400 garments a year, about one quarters of most firms’ output. More than 90 percent of their production is Canadian, they import only when Canadian furs are not top of the line. Russian sable for example, is the best sable in the world, so Yukon imports it from Leningrad.

For seven years Anthopoulos provided Christian Dior furs for the French market, a liaison that ended when Yukon signed up Canadian designer pat McDonagh about five years ago. It’s a move that has worked well. McDonagh’s designs won Yukon a spot at the American Legend, and McDonagh’s was the only fur to be shown at the Economic Summit fashion show last year, a gala held for the wives of which included Nancy Reagan.

one of her showpieces, the Chrysler Building, is a mink with skins of various colours used to echo the famous Art Deco landmark in New York. It’s a masterful piece of workmanship: an architect was called in to determine the placing of the way jigsaw-like pieces of the pattern and Anthopoulos himself spent two weeks sewing the thousands of seams in the intricate design.

Devotion to his craft means Anthopouloos is at work by 5 am and doesn’t leave until at least 12 hours later. Unfortunately, that passion has so far escaped his three children. “I only hope they find something that gives them as much joy as this gives me” he says Philosophically “My sons aren’t involved. But my daughter Gloria, the baby…” Does she love it? Will she take over? He’s speaking quietly, as though he doesn’t want to get too excited. All he will say is that she’s good. She’s got flair.

 

In 1998 Chris became an honorary Irishman, as the placard states:

“Greetings,

Know you that, having special knowledge of your generosity of spirit, you Chris MacAnthopoulos have been named an honorary Irishman on this day, 13 March 1998.

This conferral bestows upon you the following rights and privileges, normally the exclusive preserve of those born in Ireland – the land of Saints and Scholars:

* Exemption from Murphy’s law – everything you do will go right;
* The gift of Blarney – everything you say will be believed;
* Right of entry to Tir Na Nog – celebrated in Celtic mythology as the land of eternal youth;

* A share in the cultural heritage of Ireland, namely,
* The wit of Oscar Wilde,
* The poetry of William Butler Yeats,
* The philosophy of George Bernard Shaw,
* The genius of James Joyce.
* Among divers other benefits and privileges, fleetness of foot, ability to debar snakes from your environs and skill in the imbibing of spirituous liquors.

Be it known that presentation of this scroll at the gates of heaven will ensure the personal sponsorship of Saint Patrick himself.”

 

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